I don’t think it will break anytime soon.

Regardless, E3D toolchangers weigh about 30kg (the equivalent of approx. four Ender 3 [by weight]). If it broke, the printer wouldn’t move much, but there would still be a big mess as the spool would fall to the floor and unroll.

The Brits will call it BBU:

British banna unit is defined as 1 BBU = the energy to heat 1 pint of banana juice by 1°F.

Surprisingly very low friction. The only issue is it slowly grinds away the wood but at this rate, I will have gone through dozens of spools before the wooden rod needs replacement.

PLA. I don’t care if it creeps/breaks after a year. Just print a replacement with whatever is loaded on the machines.

I don’t think the MK4 is a good value in this case. You are already familiar with setting up and maintaining a budget printer as such it just works of Prusa isn’t as critical.

The answer might be your current printer: Octoprint and opensoucre are possible, bed leveling is build in, enclosure can be build but not ideal for bed slinger and size upgrade is the only point not feasible.

What are you looking for if this isn’t an option?

• Enclosure -> coreXY, etc. | no bed slinger
• OpenSource -> no BambuLab P1S
• OctoPrint -> this is rough. Most printers ship with Klipper. Maybe a DIY-kit so you could choose.
• larger than neptune 2 -> larger than 220x220x250mm

pre-built options?

• $400: Kinggroon KLP1: smaller (220x220mm), no Octoprint
• $600 FLASHFORGE Adventurer 5M Pro: no OctoPrint (klipper), identical printvolume and only klipper part of the firmware is opensource
• $600 creality K1: no OctoPrint, identical printvolume
• $700 Qidi Tech X-Plus 3: no Octoprint
• $900 Creality K1 max: no OctoPrint
• if you are lucky and max out the budget a used E3D tool changer could be possible (don’t know if Duet 2 [reprap firmware] is compatible with OctoPrint)

DIY-kits (most if not all of them are $1000+)?

• Voron
• VzBoT
• RatRig v-core
• HevROT
• BLV mgn cube

Are you looking forward to using it commercially?

Budget is Prusa MK4 price class (1000€)?

Fill angle didn’t change this as Prusaslicer sees this as a bridge.

Bridges will be printed using the best direction PrusaSlicer can detect, so this setting does not affect them.

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill_42#fill-angle

edit: just saw that there is a bridge angle setting that sets a fixed angle for every bridge.

Mockup. Will be a few weeks before the real fan is delivered.

Thanks. Is there also the option to rotate the pattern direction by 90° so it takes the short distances for bridges?

A company in the US does it. Can’t remember it’s name.

They are manufacturing realistic models (including “blood”) for doctors to practice complicated operations. As a data source, they use imaging from the patient.

A major part of their business is the knowledge what resins they need to use (realistic feeling and cut).